Sand Dunes !

Fraser Island Part 1

We are still on Fraser - 'a Mecca for 4WD enthusiasts'. It's funny how you think you know someone well and then they turn out to be a '4WD enthusiast'... Anyway, this island turns out to be a major motivator for our trip. We were all pretty jubilant to have made it up and down the beach with only a squeaky underbelly (as the fine sand tickled our TUMmy) - definitely not squeaky clean even after Matt lovingly bathed our baby with fresh water at the end if an adventure-packed day. We all climbed a big sand dune (Matt may have been more excited if he had been able to drive up) and ran back down again. Evidently our children seemed to prefer running in the tyre tracks than making them unlike Matt.. "How can they ask 'when are we gunna get there' when we are driving on a beach??!!!?" No one can answer this classic parent question.

Meanwhile I can't help but feel like I'm relaxing in a puddle at the car park...

Don't worry about us, all you faint hearted readers - we are back at the hotel now, safely cocooned by the 2 metre high electrified dingo-proof fence, and full 3G Telstra mobile service.

Agnes Water and town of 1770

The photos are, as usual, in a sequence all of the blog's own making. We camped for 2 days at a fancy beachfront caravan park in Agnes Water (not shown below - forgot to take photos!) but visited the nearby 'town of 1770' a couple of times. We had to have a go on the big pink car-boat thingy - called a LARC - something amphibious something something... The boys were feeling a bit concerned as we drove off land into water (see second last photo), but relaxed after going in and out of ocean a few times, and really loved the big splashes when speeding down a steep beach (twice because everyone loved it so much).
We realised the sun is stronger here than in the NT, and the advice to stay under a tree between 11 and 3 is sound...

Rocky

Did I mention the Mitsubishi salesman we met in the pool at the Barkly Homestead ( the side of the middle of nowhere)? He said the following cruel words to Matt that left him feeling totally unroadworthy (just a state of mind you may recall).. "Jeez mate, couldn't help but notice you're a bit loaded up there..". Matt had thought no one else could notice that our back tyres were a little 'knock-kneed'. Anyway, 'the guy' offered some welcome advice on solving our previously ignored problem - Polyair bags that 'aid' suspension. And so we booked ourselves in (some several thousand kilometres, and one completely worn out tyre later) to the friendly 4WD experts in Rockhampton to have them fitted before we took any 'stupid risks' on Fraser Island - the Fraser guidebook advises against taking 'stupid risks' you see...

Now most parts of the world are feeling the effects of some kind of recession.. Not Rockhampton! Not a single hotel/ motel room available on a Wednesday night. No special event on - just the mining boom. We really did not want to camp (don't like camping in big towns) and we knew we had to be at TJM at 8am. So we found a quaint motel (that was very nearly full of miners!) one hour's drive north of Rocky at Marlborough. Here we may have sabotaged the boys chance of a visit from Santa by attacking his representative with water pistols... Oh well, the boys had nearly given up on Santa visits anyway since it is "impossible for one man to visit EVERY single house on Earth in one night!"

Just a final word on Rocky... Matt really wanted a blog post dedicated to the life sized decorative cows and bulls that many businesses chose to display. Below are four examples. Many times Matt volunteered to drive back to get a photo of another brilliant sample, but the resounding cries of "Noooo!" from each corner of the car were deafening. Often the best thing was the attached slogan ie the job skill training centre said "traina-bull" etc. This sparked off a good hour of similar humour in coming up with "bull" type slogans. You should try it - a laugha-bull activity for an easily entertaina-bull family.

Ahh Mackay...

After giving Tao and Beth (Matt's uncle and aunt in Mackay) about 24 hours notice, we turned up on their doorstep just in time for dinner and stayed for 3 days! We enjoyed some awesome hospitality - delicious home cooked meals from Beth, 5 star luxury accomodation with oasis style swimming pool, and billiard table that enthralled the boys for hours. All this plus really lovely generous company in Beth and Tao. I only hope I can create such a welcoming, comfy home, and be as unphased by the sudden appearance of filthy, unwashed travelling nieces and nephews!
The boys might remember their trip into the clouds at Eungalla National Park, but they will definitely remember the desk chair on wheels that they rolled around the house on, and the inspirational Women's Weekly Birthday Cake cookbook that they have now as their 'souvenir'. H is already taking votes on his choice of cake for next July, and quickly dishing out punishment consisting of "you won't get to choose my cake!" to any offenders of his law.
Mackay turned out to be a highlight for each of us, all thanks to Beth and Tao.

Coast Ahoy!

We finally arrive at a bit of the much adored QLD coast while travelling down the Bruce Hwy to Theo and Beth's in Mackay for dinner tonight. The boys look out the window, briefly (inflight entertainment in full swing with so many hours in the car), and see what could be their beloved Lindeman Island (Whitsundays)... So near, yet, so far...
After Mackay, and some 'hotting up' of our beloved 4WD in Rockhampton, our vague plan is a visit to Seventeen Seventy, and then Fraser Island by end of November. Just letting readers know incase you are able to join us, and admire our 'touring prowess' in real-time...

Litchfield National Park

First stop was the Territory Wildlife Park. Here we were able to get up close to snakes and saltwater crocs. I think I had just asked H to stop tapping on the 4.5metre croc's glass when the animal started snapping wildly. H's confident reassuring words as the rest of us instinctively flinch..."Don't worry! He can't bite me!"

After sleeping in an air-conditioned apartment in Darwin while several bursts of monsoonal rain bucketed onto our roofbag of bedding, we were a little nervous about opening it up to camp at Litchfield. We need not have worried though. The contents were dry. At least until the rain came and stayed for half a day solid. Three of us selfishly read our books while Hamish threw his little foam aeroplane around the tent. We all gained some insight into the experience of going 'troppo'..
When the rain finally cleared we walked over to Wangi falls. This beautiful spot was the scene of near disaster as a tourist from Japan started going under, then bobbing up for some exhausted swimming, then going under again for longer periods as a crowd of people gathered to watch (including the drowning guy's tour leader, who was angrily, and unhelpfully, hurling verbal abuse at him)! Will helped by giving his lifejacket to Matt, who swam over and successfully rescued the poor guy. Another worthwhile investment from our Occupational Health and Safety Officer.

The next day was spent at the natural playground of Buley's Rockpools at the top of Florence Falls. Hamish and Will had a wash in the waterfall, and we met a big lizard for lunch.. I mean AT lunch!

Porcupine Gorge and Dinosaur trail

Heading to Richmond for lunch, we chanced upon two great things. Firstly, our friends from the Mataranka Springs. Hamish and Will had been asking if they would be at each stop, and here they were heading back to Brisbane via the Dinosaur Trail. This was the second great thing - Kronosaurus Korner. A fossil collection that included real Minmi bones found nearby, and Kronosaurus bones that apparently could 'eat T-Rex for breakfast'. We then spent a sociable evening camping at not-so-nearby Porcupine Gorge, with a walk, swim and sandplay in the early morning. Only 750km to drive today...

Cloncurry after Mt Isa

After a day's driving across big, flat nothing, the boys enduring a day's ban on iPad movies for some misdemeanor or other, we finally pull into Katter country at Mt Isa. This is a town so linked to mining industry that the mines are the centre of town. And so far from anywhere that the white arrow pointers to various cities have no fewer than a thousand kilometres on any arrow. It is late in the day, but after checking out one caravan park, Matt suggests we keep driving another 110km to Cloncurry. He just has a 'bad feeling' about Mt Isa. We can only get the kids back on the car by breaking the iPad ban... Driving through some prehistoric looking mountains and forest, as the late afternoon sun makes the gum trees glow in that special way, I turn to Matt and say something like "eucalypts look their best as the sun goes down". To which Matt tries to get away with, "yeah, that's why I wanted to keep driving.. So you wouldn't miss this..."

Cloncurry has a similar 'feel', but we have no choice. The tent is pitched efficiently, and I felt confident there would be no rain... A celebratory dinner (new nephew Nicholas Preston born!) required the kids to have a bit of grooming - hair getting long enough to need brushing and probably detangling spray. Luckily there was a TV behind Matt's right shoulder to distract them. Shortly after going to bed a very impressive lightning storm started. Some wine had helped numb my anxiety until the lightning and thunder struck simultaneously and blew the street light next to our tent... There was some discussion about waking the kids to sit in the car while the storm blows over. But two children woken from their deepest REM sleep turned out to be scarier than being struck by lightning.

Back to the 'Minor setback tally' for a moment. The fridge turned out to be easy to fix. A 4WD shop guy in Darwin came out to the car and removed a small red ring from the cigarette lighter in the boot (where the fridge plugs in). He smiled and said, "you'll be right now mate.. It designed for the other brand of car fridge..". Chalking up another 'dumb Victorian' story for the pub that night.
The tent does still leak a bit, but we now know where the drips are, and are learning to place bodies and bags accordingly.
A new setback is 'front seat passenger's neck'. Everyone cheers on the Driver's efforts (admittedly 10,000km in 5-6 weeks is a lot), but spare a thought for the co-pilot. 10,000km of always turning to the right to provide stimulating conversation, check everyone's comfort, pass things to kids (and remove weapons), play chess, navigate etc, turns out to cause significant pain. Future road-trippers, you have been warned.

Across the border

We are a little behind on our posts and will fill in Litchfield, Mataranka part two, Cape Crawford and Barkly Homestead later.

Right now we are in Camooweal enjoying coffee and a book exchange at the local store. We had been told this was a place to skip but found the store and storekeeper friendly and welcoming.

Will and Hamish were oddly excited to be entering Queensland - something about the Ginger factory and spending time with cousin Emmet. It's a bit scary how excited Will gets when we see a town on the horizon.

Darwin

Spent a relaxing few days in Darwin. Caught up with Jenny and family, Anthony and Paul Shelley. Discovered a fun wave pool - boys liked it so much we went three times. Dinner with a sunset, Parap market and nice apartment with two pools !

It is OK...

I can't do freestyle anyway! says Hamish as he happily bounds off to the edge of a billabong. He can't read either but he knows a red line through the symbol means it is not allowed.

Kakadudledoo!

Below are some shots from our time in Kakadu. (Crediting the title of this post to Pa Preston)

#1. We have hundreds of photos of the ancient aboriginal rock art, but the boys were so inspired by an educational video on Kakadu that they spent much of our walks making their own 'art' by tying fallen pandanus leaves into intricate knots. They were trying to weave baskets. Especially when they discovered the retail value is approx $200.

#2. and #7. are examples of schoolwork being done. So rare that it was deemed photo-worthy. This reminds me of a recent conversation that went like this:
P (after double espresso): "I am going to miss you boys when you have to go to school next year!"
(pause..while we all consider the implications of never going back..)
P: "Will, what is your back-up plan if we do not take you back to school for a proper education?" "I mean, how will you earn money when you are older?"
W: "Ummm.. I'll... invent the Nose-Picker!"
H: "Yeah! With soft edges so it doesn't hurt your nose! ...What's a back-up plan?" (patent pending, so don't be trying to steal their idea, OK?)

#3. Yep. Big termite mounds here. Discussed the future of human architecture and energy efficiency with boys. Eyes glazing over and were utterly incredulous that people have anything to learn from insects and 'nature'...Not anymore.

#4. Climbing up a steep rocky path on side if big cliff, wearing Crocs and carrying black umbrella, to this series of croc-free rock-pools at the top of Gunlom Falls, did not inspire confidence in the other hikers when they saw I was also responsible for two smallish boys. Swimming near the edge of the massive drop was perhaps a little unwise, but we all survived, and the view was awesome..

#5. The Hotel Pool. Spent many hours here too. In Kakadu, swimming is like eating. It needs to be done at least 3 times a day to avoid getting grumpy and distracted.

#6. At Maguk Falls, Will and Hamish are under the impression their life vests are croc-proof. We all swim the 100 metres or so to the falls quietly humming the Jaws theme. In fact, it has inspired a new game called the "der-nernt-er". A type of tag game where the chaser sings the Jaws theme. I'm sure everyone has a different way of spelling the sounds. But hopefully you know what I mean.

#8. Another loop track at Nourlangie Rock. Each of us could be heard shouting across the land.."why do the flies love ME so much?"
The boys were particularly intrigued with the painting of the Lightning Man who strikes law-breakers over the head with yams (sweet potatoes)...

Photos omitted include the one at Cahill's crossing - two large Salt water crocs hanging out just under the surface of murky water. You wouldn't believe me if you saw the 'logs'. And shots of our campsite - there hasn't been one since Katherine's leaky tent, and if you want to see interiors of hotel rooms you can look at Wotif.com like we did.